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Grand Seiko’s newest line of watches, “Evolution 9”, is where the brand is directing a lot of its creative energy, releasing new case designs and movements. This Anglophilia has taken many forms over the past two decades, from celebrations of the Royal Air Force, Royal Navy, and the British Army, to specialty models inspired by notable Brits ranging from physicist Stephen Hawking to Ronnie Wood, guitarist for the Rolling Stones. Both parts are entirely hand-finished, requiring ridiculous man hours and expertise to achieve. Better yet, they present a flawless view of the skeletonised movement inside, offering the kind of light and transparency we’ve never seen in any Rolex before. Completed with polarised counters and flame-blued hands, it’s a nice balance of readability and horological exhibitionism. At Baselworld 2016, Omega presented a limited edition which is directly inspired to that model. Due to the use of a movement with a date function and no display, there is a dead crown position, but I didn’t find it too bothersome: the date stop is somewhat fluid, for better or worse, and you may not even notice it. This is the next tier of improved performance in that it quite literally turns you into a better runner. Moser Watches Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD is available in two editions, each limited to just 50 pieces: Funky Blue ref. 3808-1201 and Burgundy ref. 3808-1200. The H. Moser Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD has a price of Swiss Francs 39, 900.
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The brand established in 2013 has made its claim amongst high fashion for paving the way in contemporary streetwear. Sites in Châteauneuf don’t come much more highly regarded. There are only two key differences between the standard Chronograph 41 and the Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team Edition. As such, the Fluco Paris is a great everyday strap. Want more Keegan? Check out his past appearances on Talking Watches and HODINKEE Radio.
As such, it is housed in a noble 950 platinum case, resulting in a watch with great lustre and a typical grey-blueish colour. A patented triple-differential gear connects and turns the three three hand-finished tourbillons, each of them spinning at a rate of 60 seconds, and the revolving plate which turns once each 10 minutes allowing the wearer to enjoy a mesmerising effect. Nice and neat, packaged in an easily digestible manner. The 38 mm stainless steel case houses the Oris 733 self-winding movement, based on Sellita SW 200, with date window at 6 o’clock and a power reserve of 38 hours.
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Chris is retiring the Riccardo with its Sea-Gull ST19, and says he has no plans for another chronograph, either mechanical or quartz. Instead, he will focus on high quality and easily sourced automatic movements fromMiyota or Seiko, like the high-beat Miyota 9xxx series and the new Seiko 4r36 NH series. High-beat models like the Acionna will be at the top of the brand’s price range while the more affordable Seiko-based models like the Spectre will anchor it. Here’s an example of US Navy and Marine Corps watches I’ve assembled and given to buddies I’ve known in the service. If you like something large, stands out, quality movement full of complications and a beautifully decorated movement with a see through caseback, you should check this one out.
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